The Cutting Edge

Knives have been around in one form or
another for centuries. But despite their long history and their place
as the most frequently use kitchen tool, they are often hopelessly mistreated
– little thought is given to their correct use, and still less to their
storage and care.

 

 

Far from the inadequate, frequently blunt
items, so often found in the kitchen, the thoughtful choice of a small
range of knives and a little basic care can transform this simplest of
tools into one of the most useful and pleasurable of kitchen devices.

Methods of Manufacture

Strip Steel

Strip steel is a flat piece of steel,
which comes in various grades. The steel is usually rolled, so that the
sides are parallel, then the shape of the knife is stamped out. Various
edges are then ground onto the steel – some hollow ground, some with saw-like
teeth. Different claims are made about their sharpness and retention of
edge. This is the cheapest method of manufacture.

 

 

Rolled steel

In this form of manufacture a piece of
steel is rolled into a concave shape, and the knife again stamped out
and the edge ground on. This gives some shape to the blade from the top
to the bottom edge, but the blade is generally parallel from top edge
to point. This allows for easier cutting of pumpkin etc, as it holds the
cut edges apart, but the knife usually lacks balance.

 

 

Laser cut

This is a new improvement on rolled steel,
in as much as the steel is precision cut by laser, and then ground by
robots. This gives a thinner cutting edge, better balance and a taper
from handle to tip. With a new handle of glass reinforced fibre it creates
a superior product with excellent durability.

 

 

Forged steel

This is the most expensive of the many
methods. A piece of steel is heated and a heavy weight is dropped on it
several times, to concentrate the steel into the blade, bolster (the thickened
part of the knife between the blade and the handle), and tang (the extension
of the blade projecting back into the handle), giving strength, shape,
and usually very good retention of edge. The blade is very much tapered
from the bolster to the tip and from the top edge to the very fine cutting
edge.

 

 

This method achieves good balance in
the knife – neither the front nor the handle feel heavy, but the knife
becomes rather an extension of the hand. Blade and handle are one piece
– not welded.

 

 

Therefore, to obtain the best knife,
look for a one-piece hot dropped forged blade with a dishwasher safe handle.
This type of handle is important for hygiene, but it is not recommended
that knives be put in the dishwasher, for obvious reasons – the edges
are likely to become damaged, the knife may become marked where grains
of detergent have stuck, and the knife in turn may cut the plastic of
the racks or damage other articles.

 

 

NB. A new method of forging has just
been developed, used by one of the top manufacturers and remains classified.

Selection of your basic set &
types of knives

When considering which brand of knife
to buy, ask the retailer what knives are available in a particular range,
do the knives have a warranty, and if so who will honour it. Consider
what you need and can afford. Bearing in mind that your knives could be
used for up to one and a half hours per day for the preparation and serving
of food, it is advisable to buy the best you can afford. It is not necessary
to buy a large range of knives, but a few really good ones will do a lot
to increase your enjoyment of food preparation.

 

 

 

Paring knife

Also called an office knife. This has
a short blade, around 90-100mm in length from bolster to tip, and is narrow
in width. It is used to peel vegetables, fruit etc, and to remove blemishes.
Often used in decorating fruit and vegetables for appealing presentation.
Not for heavy work.

 

 

Utility knife

This is the same width and thickness
as the carving knife, but is somewhat shorter. It is ideal for slicing
tomato, cucumber and salami, and sandwiches, and it is equally useful
for taking the last pieces of meat off the bones of a roast. It is also
very practical when preparing fresh fruit salad.

 

 

Cook’s knife

This is a somewhat larger knife, and
a length of 230-260 mm from bolster to tip is recommended. It has a reasonably
wide blade – 40-50mm – and is 4-5mm thick, tapering down to 1mm at the
tip. The top and bottom edges of the blade should be parallel to about
halfway along its length, and then curve very evenly to the tip, to allow
for a good rocking motion. In our house, this is probably the knife that
is used the most – its cuts pumpkin, shreds cabbage, slices carrots, dices
potatoes, breaks down larger vegetables and can very finely chop parsley
and herbs. It is used with a rocking motion or is pivoted on the point,
in a short, sharp, up and down or circular motion. In most cases, a part
of the cutting edge is on contact with the board at all times.

 

 

Carving knife

This is much narrower (30mm) than the
cook’s knife, but just as long (260mm) and very thin (2mm). It can be
used to carve all types of meat. It is very good for the preparation of
meat for casseroles and can be used for dicing or slicing fish. However,
it is not suitable for vegetables, especially pumpkin, as the narrow,
fine blade is inclined to get ‘jammed’ in the vegetable.

 

 

Bread knife/ Confectioners knife

This is usually around 200mm in length
and the same width as the carving knife, with a serrated cutting edge.
In practise I find a longer blade, around 260mm, more practical to use,
particularly when cutting some of the speciality type breads and French
breads on the angle. The extra length is also an advantage when cutting
large sponges for filling.

 

 

 

These are the most essential knives.
According to your lifestyle you may also choose to consider the following
overleaf:

 

 

 

Flexible Fillet Knife

Around 180mm in length and very thin
(1mm), this knife is ideal for taking the skin off fish and the fillet
off the bone.

 

 

Beak knife

The beak knife has a blade length of
about 70mm and is curved in shape, hence the name ‘beak’. It is used for
peeling, turning carrots etc.

 

 

Cleaver

Measuring about 160mm x 40mm x 36mm,
the cleaver can be used for cutting bones, tenderising meat, crushing
garlic etc.

 

 

Spatula

Often about 260mm long and 25-30mm wide,
the spatula should be very thin so that items can be lifted without damaging
the underside. The degree of flexibility or rigidity you need will depend
on how you use the spatula.

 

 

Fork

This should be strong, about 160mm long,
and without a guard. Use it to hold the meat while you cut downwards or
away from the fork – never towards you.

 

 

Cheese knife

The cheese knife has an offset handle
and a blade about 120mm long with a non-stick edge. The advantage of the
offset handle is that it allows room for the knuckles as you slice down
through the block of cheese, resulting in a clean cut and no more sore
knuckles that have been ‘squashed’ against the cutting board.

 

 

In a good range you will find a knife
for almost every purpose.

Caring for your knives

 

 

Use your knives on an oiled wooden board,
about 400-500mm long, 300-400—wide and reasonably thick – 25-35mm. There
are also some very good soft, dense polyethylene boards available for
use where hygiene is paramount, and they usually present no problems to
the edge of the knife. Formica-type products, steel, marble, glass etc
are not recommended.

 

 

After you have used your knives, rinse
them immediately under cold water, or hot if you have been carving the
roast. Place them at the back of the bench with the edge away from you.
When you next run a sinkful of hot soapy water, clean the knives first.
I usually use a brush, clean the handle and then scrub the blade. Dry
with a soft cloth and place in storage. Make sure you run the blunt side
of the knife nearest to your hand when pulling through the tea towel.

 

 

PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT

 

 

1. Rinse in warm water and dry with
   soft cloth

 

 

2. Store your knives in one of the
   following ways.

    

    

   1. Magnetic Rack

    

    

   2. Wooden block

    

    

   3. Knife roll

    

    

   4. Brief Case

    

    

   5. Edge Guards

 

 

3. Steel your knife each time

Storage

My choice is a wooden block, either slanted
or upright, depending on where it is to be used. This allows all knives,
steel etc to be kept in one place, and if you want to take them outside
for a barbeque or to the bach you have a safe place to keep them. Make
sure the slots are long enough, wide enough, and that there is enough
room between the handles to allow easy withdrawal of each item.

 

 

 

Many people have no need for transportability,
and a magnetic rack is practical for them, screwed permanently onto the
wall above the work area. Ideally suited to chefs are brief cases, wooden
boxes and knife rolls.

 

 

The main aim of storage is safety, to
prevent the edges coming in contact with each other, and to allow ease
of handling when working in a busy kitchen. Please don’t leave knives
loose in a drawer.

Use of the steel

This is a discipline which is particularly
neglected, but it is simple to learn and will keep knives sharp and in
good order with very little effort. Try to get into the habit of putting
the knife across the steel a few times each times you go to use the knife.

 

 

Hold the steel in your left hand (if
you are right handed), with the knife in your right hand. Beginning at
the tip of the steel and proceeding downward, cut into the steel as if
the steel were a pencil being sharpened. Maintain a 20° angle and always
repeat an equal number of strokes on each side of the blade.

 

 

The steel does not sharpen, but merely
realigns the edge, whereas the machine or oilstone actually sharpens the
blade. Depending on the use of each knife, the actual sharpening process
may only need to be carried out every 18 months to three years.

 

 

When choosing a steel, make sure it is
as long as or longer than your longest knife. After four to five years,
the grooves in the steel may disappear, but the steel will still do its
job as long as the steel is harder than the knife you are using on it.
A good steel will cost about as much as some of the knives.

 

 

 

 

 

A sharp knife is a safe knife.

 

 

Unless you are fooling with a good sharp
knife, the chances of cutting yourself are not very high, as pressure
is not needed and the knife will go exactly where you intend it to go.

 

 

Good knives may be expensive, but if
wisely chosen and well cared for (using a steel) they will last 20 to
30 years or more, making the yearly cost minimal and adding much pleasure
to your food preparation.

 

 

At the House of Knives you can test-drive
the cooks knife in our kitchen that you want to use in yours. You are
welcome to bring with you specific foodstuffs (fish, bread, cheese etc)
appropriate to your needs, so you can obtain the right knife for the job.

 

 

We can offer a replacement warranty on
our knives when there is a case of manufacturing fault (this does not
include incorrect use, dropping or prising!)

 

 

A good knife is a joy to use. ©
World of Cutlery Ltd 22/06/01